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Thanks for jumping in there Matt! I figured you’d have the inside scoop on the old pipes...

Actually hold off. I’m only seeing one pipe for the 717. I can’t remember whether they had a spec 1 and 2 for that motor, or if it was just the 787’s that they had two options for... Maybe @Matt Braley can enlighten us on that...

You will absolutely need to rejet for the FPP Spec 2, and you’d probably be better off moving to a set of 40mm carbs off of a 787 ski. For the carbs you have now, Factory recommends the jetting below. This is for a stock engine with an OEM air box on it, and any additional modifications will...

If your dealer suggested that they e sold tons of those kits without any complaints, I’d find a new dealer. I’ve never seen an aftermarket carb kit used on these than ran right when it was done.

Where is your ground connected? It should be directly to the starter.

Yes, you’ll get less performance out of the small hub pump than the large hub pump. It’s probably not a huge difference, but the difference is definitely there.

The large hub pump is the better unit. You can make the small hub one work, but I’d probably resell that one and find one with the correct housing. Give Westside Powersports a call and see if they can help you out...

You’ll have to grab the PTO itself to try to spin it by hand. You’ll never get enough leverage on the driveshaft itself to turn it over. Just pull both plugs out and see if you can turn it by hand that way.

Yes, you can clamp the starter in a vise and then put the positive clamp on the screw the positive cable went to, and the negative cable goes to the case.

As far as data goes, I know that the oils below are compatible when mixing. It’s not a big list, but it’s what I’ve actually tested myself and can vouch for. Pennzoil Premium with used to say “meets API-TC” on the label, but since it has been removed, I stopped using it, so mixed several others...

I sent you a PM with a link.

You can get new carbs from OSD still. Your other option is to just rebuild what you have using the carb rebuild sticky in this forum. The sticking butterfly and linkage can be cleaned up and regreased as well...

I don’t think it’s the bracket. I can’t see how it would create a gap there... I’ve also never seen carb screws back out on their own. Usually they’re a pain to get to break free, so it’s normally the opposite problem. I’ve had some fuel pumps not seal well in the past, but never had one...

That starter looks rough! If it’s not working on the bench, it’s definitely not working in the ski. It could be OEM, but I can’t make out any markings on it at all, so there’s no telling. With the shape that it’s in, I’d probably just call Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports and get a good used...

Okay, gotcha! You’re going to have to pull that carb apart one way or another, since you can’t run it with that leak. Something is either installed incorrectly or physically damaged somehow. Carb parts are still available, so you can fix whatever it is, but you’ll have to dig in to find out what...

You really need to do the bypass procedure I spelled out above. The fuel system works under suction rather than positive pressure, so sometimes they will hold pressure, but still leak under vacuum. The pressure test also doesn’t account for a clogged selector, as it will still hold pressure even...

Yep. Try to fire it up with the pump removed. If it turns over, you’ve found your problem.

Not meaning to argue at all! Just trying to explain the difference in ratings and additive packages... I’ve done some testing for gelling myself, so it’s always good to know what will mix and what won’t.

Wait a minute, what’s the $20 kit? Did you rebuild the carbs with aftermarket parts? If so, you’re going to have to tear them back down and buy the Mikuni stuff. You’ll never get it running right until you do that...

Take a look at the fuel pump cover where the pulse line fitting is. Are there any gouges or is it a nice smooth surface? Sometimes those things are difficult to get to seal up, but I think it’s usually from corrosion or gouges in either the carb body or the pump cover.