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Yep, it sounds like leaking needles and time for a full carb rebuild and fuel selector replacement. It really should have been done right after you replaced the fuel lines and before the ski was run. Those lines break down into a green goo that clogs the small orifices in the carbs, so it’s a...

It really depends on whether you want to be back on the water this season. If so, SBT is your best option... You may be able to rebuild it yourself, but you won’t really know what you’re dealing with until you split the case...

What’s your compression at now? If you’ve got fuel and spark, there’s no reason it should be running on one cylinder...

Yeah, that looks rough! You’ve definitely got metal in the rest of the case...

Did you try pressure testing the pump from the pulse fitting? It should hold 4psi.

I’d trust the inductive tach over the stock one. Have you tried checking the fuel pump side of the carb again? Sometimes those don’t seat well and can cause low fuel pressure...

He’s referring to the carbon seal where the drive shaft enters the hull. The stainless steel hat is retained with either an o-ring or a c-clip...

The only thing I see that you’re missing is to replace the 3/32” tygon lines from the oil pump to the intake. Also make sure you read the carb rebuild sticky on the forum and follow it to the letter when tackling the carbs.

I just checked mine, and it is just a contact closure. You shouldn’t have any voltage there until you push the button... Put your meter in continuity mode rather than voltage. Check to see that it shows open across the two pins on the connector, and then closed when you push the button.

You’re fine with the WSM stuff. By recreational, I mean you’re not out racing and trying to lean the ski to the point right before you start melting pistons. You should be good to go if your ski is fairly stock and you’re just out having fun.

I thought it was an open circuit until you pushed the button, and then it closed. I’ll have to dig a bit to verify...

Replacing it is the only good way to fix it if it’s bad. You could wire up some kind of momentary switch, but that’s really not a good idea for something as important as the start/stop switch.

First test your start button with a multimeter. It’s a simple contact closure, so you should have continuity when the button is pressed and not when it isn’t. If that checks out okay, check for voltage on both sides of the solenoid when you press the button. You should have power to one terminal...

This really needs to be moved out of the performance section and into the regular two stroke section of the forum... You need to take a multimeter and test the switch. It should just be a contact closure, so check to see that you have continuity when the button is pressed and none when it’s not.

Yes, you are checking resistance between all of the yellow wires. You should get .1-1ohm between any of those wires.

The continuity to ground is just a simple check to see if the wire you are probing is grounding. You’ll put your meter on the continuity setting and put one probe on the wire and the other on a ground. The meter will normally give a reading of either “1” which means there is no continuity, or a...

No, as long as they are even between the carbs and in the specification range, leave them alone.

Just use a good marine grease and you’ll be fine. To be honest I just leave the marine grease in my gun and use it as an all purpose grease for other things around the garage too.

You don’t want to add too much grease on the carrier end. Just a pump or two is plenty. If you overdo it, you can blow the seal out and cause a leak.

Just add grease until you see the shaft start to move and call it good. It doesn’t take much.