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Good deal! Don’t be afraid to give it the beans after you get through that first tank. It’s good to run them hard once they get a few heat cycles in them...

I’m not taking about settings being different, I’m taking about the physical linkage being synchronized. If you have one carb completely closed at idle and the other cracked open, you could see the engine idling on one cylinder.

I really wouldn’t stress it if it was a needle bearing that let go. If you had a melted piston or signs of seizure then you have a problem to work out, but that doesn’t appear to be the case here.

What’s the history of the boat? Did it spend a long period sitting? Sometimes you can get rust on those parts when they sit too long not being used and over time it will eat the bearings...

This is where a heat gun comes in really handy! Use it to soften up the rail and then you can push it into place..:

Yes, one on each end.

The wear ring should be a press fit, so no glue or silicone. The pump itself requires a neoprene seal between it and the hull rather than that glob of sealant that was used before. You will need to use a bit of silicone around the cooling fitting and bailer lines when you put it back on though...

Well there should be a small rubber bumper on the end of the shaft that keeps it from bottoming out in the PTO, but it should be fully engaged in the splines when it’s all the way in...

Definitely clean and inspect the raves, but this could also be a rectifier problem. You can check by opening the grey electrical box and unplugging the red wire from the regulator. You won’t charge the battery like this, but you can ride for 30 minutes or so to see if the problem is gone.

Well now it’s time to pull that RV cover and check your timing. You’ll need a new o-ring and a degree wheel, or you can print one out if you don’t want to buy the plastic one.

Is it no water coming out, or very little? My 95 has very little water coming out at idle, but a healthy stream once you get on the throttle.

Yes, it’s very likely that a failing stator would act differently warm than cold. It wouldn’t hurt to do the test while it’s having the problem...

The one coil fires both plugs, so I don’t think that’s your issue. Did you make sure the carbs are in sync? Maybe one is closed while the other is cracked enough to idle...

That shouldn’t happen. Take a flashlight and look at the splines in the PTO itself...

It’s not difficult at all as long as the carbon seal c-clip doesn’t give you trouble... You’re going to need a new PTO grease boot, a neoprene seal for the pump, and new oil and o-ring for the pump cone. I’d also consider changing the wear ring since you’re going to have the pump off anyway...

Good to know! I guess those parts and labor shortages are getting to everyone... I had a motor ship from them right at the beginning of the whole pandemic, but I think it got out right before they started having to send people home.

If that’s the case, go SBT... You’ll have a warranty on the motor, and won’t be stuck waiting on an engine when you’re getting ready to sell it next year. Since it’s already got leaking crank seals, I wouldn’t just throw a top end on it...

Well if that’s the case, you’re going to be replacing the pto boot and carbon seal, which requires removing the pump and driveshaft. Make sure you inspect the pump very closely for smoothness and that there is no play in the bearings.

32:1 is fine for break in if you’re premixing, but keep extra plugs handy, because you will foul them. I run a good heat cycle on a new engine before taking it out on the water. Back the trailer into the water and start the engine. Let it run for 15-20 minutes while you double check for leaks...

If it just revved, you’ve got cavitation on that pump. Check it with a flashlight and see if you’ve got an obstruction or your wear ring is chewed up.