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Glad you got the tank cleaned out. Sucks it doesn’t run better, but needed to be done regardless since you had water on the plug. Hopefully someone more familiar with the computer system on the ski can pitch in. Maybe an easy way to read codes? You can get lucky shotgunning parts, or you can...

I’ve had coil issues, but with the cheap aftermarket ones being bad right out of the box. If you got an oem unit, disregard. Definitely check the resistance ohm values to service manual spec before installing. Can help catch a bad aftermarket part.

Glad it worked out. Happy boating

Lets start simple. Is the ski beeping it when you put the lanyard on? Is the 5amp fuse in the Module good? These starter systems are not complicated. You know you have power and ground on the high amp side of the solenoid/circuit since it cranks when you jump the solenoid. Find a wiring...

Smell that liquid on the plug. Raw gas will have a distinctive smell. I’ve never seen gas bead up on the plug like that, so it looks like water. Water + oil on plug = waxed car effect. I think you really need to completely empty and dry the fuel tank regardless of weather you also have a spark...

Almost any common compression tester will do. Automotive stores sell them.

DanSquires gave you the proper long-term fix. If I was you, I think I’d hit it with plenty of loc tite and get it tight as you can just to finish out the season. Again, not the proper fix, but I think it would be ok for a little while. Up to you if you want to take the risk.

The only thing less reliable then a jet ski is an old jet ski…. To be honest, hearing an older pwc start up and run well is worth it though. It gives a sense of accomplishment you don’t get with a new ski.

Also, dirt in the fuel can cause an injector to stick open flooding the cylinder. That issue would persist regardless of how many injectors you put on, as dirt will foul the new ones in a short time.

Definitely sounds like a rich running problem. It is suspicious that it follows the injector. That may be your clue. Don’t count out weak spark though. Maybe running with an in-line spark tester connected to see if it drops out under load.

How would you describe it when it isn’t running well. Missing, rev limiter feeling, bogging, reving excessively, loading up? Just trying to narrow it down. Exhaust problems may be something to look out for. A leak can fill the haul with exhaust and kill the engine. Just ride with the seat off to...

Update on this issue. It is fixed! Wanted to share for everyone else. When I bought the ski the owner had a receipt that showed “Install customer provided coil” a resistance test of the new cheap aftermarket coil showed 4 ohms on the primary. Way too high as the spec is under 1 ohm. Just...

Is your new carb set to factory mixture screw settings? Might be running rich and loading up causing your issues. Get up to cruising speed for a minute or so and then shut off the engine and coast to a stop. Pull the plugs quickly and see what color the tips are. Black/fouled is too much fuel or...

+ 1 on the rotary valve. Also, check your exhaust hoses for soft spots and water box for loose baffles. An exhaust restriction due to a failing hose or bad water box can cause what your having. From the video it looks like the ski doesn’t want to idle after being reved and then picks back up...

Hard to tell if it’s factory paint. Maybe look in the spark plug holes and see if the pistons are overbore size or not? That could be one clue. Super clean ski BTW. Looks like a good find. FYI the spark plug boot grounding terminals and airbox mount are missing on the left hand side of the...

I guess you are still having the problem? I would recommend voltage drop testing the entire starting circuit one wire and component at a time. If it is a new starter and a good battery, then there is either resistance somewhere that is stopping good current flow, or a problem in the switch/mpem...

+ 1 Hopefully you can save the cylinders if the rust isn’t bad. Probably won’t be able to if you force the seized/grooved rings up and down.

Your rotary valve clearance/ smoothness is important for reliable starting. If you didn’t do the clearance check before you disassembled it I would recommend temp installing the valve and cover without the o ring and doing that with the service manual procedure. That will at least tell you if...

I tried new plugs, testing stator for charge and too much AC voltage, brand new AGM battery. Looks like I’ll try testing the coil. Is the static resistance test going to tell me anything if the ski only breaks up under load? Seems like it won’t, but not sure.

That makes sense. Sorry for your luck. Maybe look into SBT fully rebuilt engines. Shorter turn around time and less hassle.