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Wow, interesting. I too share your bewilderment on the abnormal gear wear. Have you looked at the rv valve clearance? They expand when heated and could potentially bind if the clearance is too close. Just a thought

Go ahead and pull the airbox off to take a look. When reinstalling my carbs, I didn’t loctite the two bolts that hold the airbox to the carb and they got sucked into the bottom end bending the rotory valve in the process. The screws can jam in the counterweight on the crank and “seize” the...

Does it sound like it is cranking fast enough in the water? If you can start it on the ramp and quickly back it into the water and it runs fine look at the starting system. If not, might be time to check rotary valve clearance, fuel delivery and carburetor. Running fine on the trailer can mask...

You should check for AC voltage at the battery when running at different engine speeds. A bad rectifier will allow AC voltage into the system causing numerous strange issues.

Would be interesting to connect an inline spark tester and see if it acts up when connected. That would definitely help narrow down an electrical or fuel issue.

Definitely replace all the old style fuel lines, the filter, and check all the clamps. Replace the fuel selector valve if your ski has one. They are known to leak internally. Keep in mind, the fuel system requires 100% sealing from carb to sending unit. The pump in the carb puts a small...

Well, that’s not good. 150 is a “new” reading, and at 125 the engine is done. Sounds like it’s time to open up the engine and rebuild or replace.

Hard to tell without getting in there, kinda sounds like a piston slap. Tear the top end down, and then do a visual inspection on the rod bearings, as well as checking for any play. Chances are, you will probably end up with a full rebuild. If the pistons are that bad, whatever caused it (lack...

Definitely check exhaust, an exhaust leak can fill the hull and choke out the engine as well. When bogging, does gently pulling on the choke help it rev up? That will indicate a fuel supply problem

Your cylinders are bored 0.050 over, which is the max oversize. It would be ideal to measure the cylinders for taper and out of round wear. You definitely need to drag your fingernail along the cylinder wall though and see if you can feel any scratches. If it feels smooth, then you may be able...

The one by your thumb on the head is the new one, keep it right where it is. The one in the top cover is the old o- ring that stuck there during disassembly, remove that. You only need one o-ring with a little bit of lube as POPPS said.

Was the pto flywheel thing grabbing standing water and flinging it up? You can run on the hose to check the cooling system, just keep it under 3 min or so for the sake of the carbon seal.

Looks like you found your problem. I’ve had a brand new aftermarket coil with resistance out of spec drop out above half throttle. Oem coil fixed it. To test the primary, one lead on the blade terminal, and the other on the metal around one of the bolt holes.

Good to hear. Happy boating.

The pistons should be marked on the top for standard bore or a number marking for an overbore. Just order what you see and hope you find your cylinders to be reusable when you get in there. If you don’t have a borescope and can’t see through the spark plug holes, then the cylinder head is...

My understanding is that one of the coil bolts acts as a common grounding point for the components in the box. Just compare what you have to what the wiring diagrams says you should have. The color coding will help you identify what you are looking at in relation to the diagram.

You may be onto something. A water box that has filled up and blocked the exhaust certainly won’t allow it to start. Also explains the no-start after time issue. Unfortunately I’ve never messed with a water regulator, hopefully someone with more experience can chime in.

Have you tried cleaning the DESS key and post contacts with an eraser? They should have a metallic shine when clean. When it is acting up, start wiggling wires and connectors with the key on the post. See if you get two beeps as you move things around. Also, worth taking a look at the fuses...

Have you tried to kill it by pulling the plug wires when it is running? That will definitely take any sort of lean run-on or cylinder hot spot condition out of the picture. Then you know for sure it’s electrical.

Have you tried dribbling some gas down the intake to see if it will fire?