Search results

You’re on the right track with the kill switch replacement. Don’t want to ride without a working lanyard. Spark is good, it is definitely having trouble pulling fuel from the tank. If it is running for a second or two it is just sucking the residual from inside the carb. Get that fuel selector...

Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. My thoughts right now. If your rotary valve shaft jumped gear teeth there will probably be brass shavings in the case oil in the center sump area where the shaft runs Maybe you can suck it out and see if there is any contamination? You could...

Good news. Engine is not hydro locked if it spins by hand. Sounds like you are chasing a starting system issue. Battery is definitely a good place to start as tobytd said.

Sounds like you replaced the rotary valve. Did you set your clearance? Possibly binding there. You can pop off the carb and intake easily and check with a feeler gauge.

I took your post to mean you are still running gray “tempo” fuel lines? If so, that is most likely your problem. Replace all them with good line. I like the 25 foot black spool from Amazon. A good deal in bulk and it doesn’t harden when exposed to ethanol fuel. There are small screens inside the...

Hmmm, level shouldn’t have anything to do with it. Diaphragm carb are designed to operate at any inclination. (Think chainsaw). I think you may be looking at a small leak in your fuel system somewhere that breaks the vacuum and negates the pump. Have you replaced your fuel shutoff valve? That...

To be honest, you won’t be able to feel any suction. Especially when the engine isn’t running. The pump operates on a pressure differential principle. A slight, very slight vacuum in the pump draws the fuel up from the tank. When it is back together, 30 seconds to a minute of cranking. (In...

Sounds like you found it. Awesome. Not sure that you could get the pump disk and rubber plug separately. FYI it has been proven time and time again on this form that genuine Mikini carb kits are the only way to go. Also, I see you have gray fuel lines running between the carbs in the picture...

Definitely look over your fuel line routing per the service manual. Also check for any areas that may leak. The smallest amount of air allowed into the feed line will break the vacuum and not allow it to pull fuel from the tank. If all else fails, take the carb pump side apart and check...

Hopefully you can find a free service manual online for your ski. That will give you all the fuel line routing information you need. The line from the carbs directly back to the tank is most likely a return line. The pulse line gets a slight vacuum followed by a slight pressure, quickly back...

When the pumps start pulling fuel it will be obvious. It takes my single carb 717 about 10 seconds of cranking to fill the system and feed the carbs. As etemplet said, your accelerator pump is a great way to see if you got fuel at the carbs. The throttle should feel like an empty windex spray...

In addition, you can also check the engine side pulse nipple on the crankcase. Sometimes they clog or corrode off altogether.

Sounds like you fixed it by messing around and fixing your connections. Awesome. Thanks for posting your solutions here for the next person with a similar problem.

I’ve seen a bad coil cause this issue as well, compare ohm readings to manual spec. No positive change when pulling choke sounds like ignition to me.

Have you tried running with gas cap off? Seat off? Checked fuel pressure? Just some simple things to start.

Throw a voltmeter on the starter positive post and let us know what reading you have when trying to start.

I would find a high impedance test light (high impedance won’t draw extra current and damage the mpem). Stick the tip of the light into the small power wire coming from mpem at the solenoid keep everything plugged in, and watch as you crank. Light should glow and stay on as long as the start...

I would be tempted to try glueing it back in place with some marine silicone. Especially if the current rivets are loose but still holding.

Lack of fuel or lean running causes bogging, kinda sounds like the groan that someone makes when they get the wind knocked out of them. An engine air leak would fall into this category. More throttle will make it worse or shut it off, so probably not what is happening. Too much fuel can cause...

Don’t give up.. I think you have a spark problem. One cold/colder plug and choke not affecting the problem are your clues. My 720 with a brand new aftermarket coil would run decent but not go over 15 mph. Backfired and carried on but just wouldn’t rev out. Black and wet plugs no matter what. A...