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P0112 is Intake manifold temp sensor shorted to ground, so bad sensor or shorted wire possibly

Permatex ”The Right Stuff” I know some people will say to use ultra black but I find the right stuff is a little thicker and stays in place more, easier to work with. Supposed to resist blowout better. Don’t get the aerosol version get the calking gun style and make sure you let it cure plenty...

i guess what I am trying to find out is what water temp sensor are we talking about. when the gauge displays temp on the gauge that’s the lake temp read by the speed sensor or air temp read by the sensor in the hood, when there is a warning buzzer with a overheating message that is either the...

check the both sides of the plug in the rear electrical box, sometimes the wire gets corroded and rotten inside the plug so take the plugs apart for the electrical box to check for corrosion, check the resistance of the wires from the electrical box back to the Mpem check the resistance of your...

I would say your not going to notice it but there will be a point when too much is too much

I use x-tractalloy welding rods with an arc welder for removing stainless hardware, it works well when dealing with bolts broken down inside of threads, the flux keeps the welding arch from going into the sides of the threads, you can build the weld up in the hole until you get enough out the...

yes, your verifying the timing is lined up in spec, you adjust the timing on the computer but you need to verify with a timing light to see where the mark lines up, the replacement Mpem might not be adjusted right for your engine. every engine could be different because of machining tolerances

sounds like you should be ok, but you do need to have some clearance because when things heat up they are going to expand. I usually trim them before I install the cylinder and check them with a straight edge and feeler gauge. the key just times the flywheel, the taper on the crank and flywheel...

your sportster should have the carbon seal set up in your second pic, the older set up was with the bearing and grease fitting and around 1996 they started using the carbon seal on more units. if the bearing carrier is sealing on the shaft it will likely still work but you have to remember to...

you said you changed the temp sensors? which ones, the one in the head and the one in the muffler? you checked the harness? did you measure them with an ohm meter? at start up on the water your sensor is saying 30 degrees? on your gauge? if my memory is right your gauge displays water temp of...

I always bleed the pump at the bleed screw and then when I start it for the first time I'll hold the oil pump wide open with my finger while it runs for a couple of minutes, everything is coated in 2 stroke oil when I'm rebuilding it and I drop about 15-20 cc's of oil in each side of the rotary...

Seadoo sells 295500900 which is a conversion kit to switch it from the old style solenoid to the new style Seadoo solenoid. it changes the small posts on the old solenoid to the new style plug. they are still available and they are about $50 CDN. has instructions in it for hooking it up. here...

Yes, you will need to remove the ride plate and intake grate first, the ride plate is sealed to the pump support, when you put it back together don't be shy with the sealant.

No, never had any issues with osmosis but I apply a barrier coat every year, you could apply a antifoul coat or a barrier coat but that goes for any Fiberglass boat.

On a 210 You could check behind the helm, the throttle cable from the shifter lever goes to two tps sensors mounted to a bracket, if the sensors are loose that could cause the engines to be out of sync on a electronic throttle body engine,

Mine stays in the water, never had any issues with it, I check for leaks from time to time, typically a leak will start off small and if it is ignored it can become a big leak, it is important to check hoses and clamps and any thru hull sealing points, but that should be done regardless if you...

be sure to use the correct one for your boat, there are different colours available for different engines. they are calibrated for the proper water pressure in the exhaust cooling system.

your throttle cables likely are not synchronized, there is an adjuster in the cable back by the throttle body, loosen off the cable on the engine that is revving higher in the midrange, it is likely pulling/stretching the cable at wide open throttle, if you had someone run the throttle for you...

yes, same thing different name....

Did you happen to check the spark plugs to see if they were wet or darker than the other engine? it sounds like you may have an issue with your idle bypass valve or something stuck in the port for it, you could try switching them from one engine to the other to see if your problem switches...