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yup... thats exactly what i did...good thing it wouldnt run, gas to the lake and water to the carbs...hugh f up...(glad i put in filler port to block at the counter balance pto end) and sucked water oil from bottom end through the rotary holes and added fresh oil to bottom end. i think i saved...

hmmmm lines are right i think put back the way they came off. 95 % sure???

turns out rotary valve is not timed correctly.

the timing is probably off?? this can happen with a new crank?? i think im reading it can. Ill have to get the mpem set???

coming out of carbs near main feed . i think its bc it wont start and is getting flooded from all the starting attempts. there is a line from carb that goes to the rear of the hull and is coming from there in excess , which i imagine is the over flow.

HELP ran for 5 min on water then wouldnt start again, seems like no gas to motor. gas comming out of carbs in excess also. gas oil coming out of over flow port in in rear of hull in excessive amounts

i did put the counterbalance access port . there is some debate as to whether its necessary or not. my take is that if it wasnt necessary it wouldnt have been added to later models . any other opinions yea or nay on this ?

runs like a champ , to the lake thurs to see what happens. Thank you to all that helped. now we dont have to ride 3 up at the outerbanks!

whats up with the drive shaft alignment. if it doesn't wobble or vibrate, its fine right ? How tight should the pto flywheel be tightened? just until it stops? there arent any torque specs in manual.

gonna blast it off tomorrow

is it ok to use synthetic grease on impeller shaft splines

what oil for impeller? other than seadoo jet pump synthetic oil

so the arrow on the piston has to point toward the rave valves this puts the hole on the side of the piston opposite . right?

so is ok?............

very minor groove shown can barely feel it with finger nail

no pitting but a shinny thin area. is that ok?

thanks a million . here goes nothing

[ doesnt sit on shaft . about 3mm gap on wrong end here but same 1mm gap on correct end . is this right

is there supposed to be a large gap between inner seal and crank shaft in regards to the larger seal a the end of it

OK back to oil. what is the best and least expensive full synthetic API-TC. i know these dont usually go together but i mean what is the best and then comparable for less money?