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I'm pretty sure you can get remove the sending unit. You might have to get ugly with it. :D

Old wires change color so that is difficult sometimes. Generally 2 pick wires from the fuel baffle send the resistance measurement to the fuel gauge. Usually the purple and black wires see power. Black= common, purple = 12 volts.

If you are speaking of the large 3-1/4" gauges those are difficult to find and when you do they are expensive. Prices are very unfriendly. I'd check the fuel baffle first to make sure it is sending a good signal to the fuel gauge.

It would help if you state where your measurement probes are connected. Check your ground wire resistance to the engine. You may have a bad connection or a damaged wire.

I have never noticed that. I don't like it but... I wouldn't replace it. :D Good Catch !!

I hate that o-ring manifold. It may well solve one problem but the channels corrode and it needs to be replaced. There is no repairing that thing. I have 2 on my junk pile right now. I'll take the old ones.

I had a 96' XP which had the 787 engine. It ran about 57mph. Plenty of power. This ski is likely the same thing pretty much. I just happen to have all these high performance parts just sitting around. :) I'm gonna build it only because "it deserves to be built." Otherwise it's just junk...

Upper hull is sanded with a 320 grit dual action sander. It looks good from a distance because the color is more uniform. There were lots of uneven surfaces under the graphics that I figured I'd sand smooth. I just get my trailer bearings from O'Reilly's Auto when I need them. I saw bearings...

Doesn't look like much but has come a long way. Top hull isn't painted just partially prepped. Engine, exhaust, and big parts are going in before it is painted. I've had some experience of things getting scuffed up doing the installs. On a side note... for me.... I hate trailers. They are...

Maybe check on the "Performance" 2- stroke forum. Us old 2-stroke guys are dwindling. :D Are you having trouble "up top" or down low? Did you check for a vacuum leak on the crank seals?

No clue yet as I haven't disassembled the carbs. I am a bit curious myself and I'll post one what I find. I'm assuming the ski was set up well to run with the factory pipe and other components so I should be close. I'm cleaning the bilge one last time before I start putting everything back in.

I went to put the ski on the trailer and I did some checking... of course the bearings were bad and it needed some bunk work but the ski is on the trailer. The Miller Engine is on the bench. I don't expect to have any issues but we'll see. Gotta rebuild the Buck Shot Carbs and determine how to...

I have a pretty large stash. If you post a picture and a length and I'll check.

Do you have aftermarket exhaust or stock? I'm not used to the term "tuned pipe" :D I would suggest riding the ski with the seat off and locating the point where it is getting hot "Heat flows from hot to cold" so the hottest spot is the problem. A laser pointer thermometer would be helpful...

If the engine is revving at idle the low speed is lean. Revving the engine after a cold start can result in a runaway. Engines are made to run in the water. Running in the driveway is only good for a start up to make sure the engine runs. As soon as the RPM starts to increase when you are not...

You had me thinking for a minute. LOL

I misread the post a bit. I didn't realize people paint seats. :D I use SEM on my airplane interior, not the seat material, but interior plastics and metal. It has lasted for 10 years. I only repainted parts because they got scratched up or damaged.

I used to feel the same way about the red and the green bellows. Not so sure now as a lot of people are obviously buying the green ones and they are working. LOL Check and make sure you still have threads in your piston. I've melted one or two in less than 1 hour run time. Good Luck.

Yes that is a vent for the oil tank.

A few pictures may help. This is from my 1996 SPI 587. All I got sorry. This one is a 1995 SPX