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I had one that did that. Right under 4200 then evey now and that it would take off and run 6900. Once I let it drop back down below 4000 rpm it wouldn't rev. It was the rev limiter in the MPEM. I swapped MPEMs and the ski ran great. I kept the MPEM for testing.

I have a restored 2002 GTX DI that hasn't been ridden much at all in the last year. Ski starts right up, has maybe 5 hours on the engine. I found a leaking Water Control Valve and the raves were starting to lift as I revved the engine on the trailer in the driveway. I plan on removing the...

That's one thing I like about after restoring a ski.... everything comes apart easily. Sure is nice when they do that. LOL Unfortunately we' re the ones that have to fight it to make it that way.

Just a suggestion regarding the electrical systems on Seadoos. I can't say what a shorted or grounded rectifier will or won't do but it will blow fuses or your MPEM diodes. I have experience with that. :) There is a pretty good chance that over voltage coming from the wrong direction damaged...

A lot of old school 2-stroke motorcycle and outboard guys won't run injection pumps. A lot of engines failed because of pumps or the associated systems. That carried over to today as old wives tales. I think back then there were many more mechanical people that worked on their own stuff...

I just sold a Speedster MPEM a couple months ago. Did you check your fuses? It could be the rectifier or a loss of ground. I'd replace the rectifier first as they are pretty cheap. Finding an MPEM would be easier for a single engine boat that the twin. You can try OSDmarine. I believe they...

You may be able to test them just out of curiosity. You're probably looking at $50 each for the pumps used,

Oil Injection is more convenient. On the pumps, did they only cap the oil or did they remove the pump drives? I'd surely replace the pumps if they ran them with no oil but you can test them. I would expect them to seize up but... one never knows. Even with injection I run 100:1 premix. I...

Lucky. :D I paid much more for those special screwdrivers. I even bought an impact type but... I'm not much of an impact guy. Usually just strips the slot. Glad you make out OK.

It should tinkle some pee pee. If it is not, you have a problem with the waterflow. You likely have 2 distinct problems with the engine. Compression check first is always a good idea. Strange that the ski "starts" in the water and won't stay running? Generally low compression the ski won't...

If this is an XP with trim motor pull the 7.5 amp fuse from the trim.

I've taken engines apart that were much worse than yours and still running very well with much much issues. These conditions make the ski more difficult to start. Keep this in mind, even with a groove, if the groove doesn't go all the way it isn't as critical. Probably be able to find cases...

I've machined about 5 or 6 of the rotary valve covers. I had to take a lot of metal of some of them to get it to clean up. If the groove extends from port to port, you have a leak path and gasses will cross over. Even without the groove there can be a great deal of wear. People might be...

Do your checks and rule out what you can. If need be maybe you could find someone nearby with the same ski and do a test swap.

130 or 135psi compression and I'm doing the top end. I always find damage at those numbers too cheap and easy to fix.

I had this problem with a RFI and it was the rev limiter inside the MPEM. Swapped MPEMs and the ski was fine. I kept the MPEM as a spare for testing. I've had other weird issues the RFI MPEMs. one energized the pto fuel injector so it acted like a jet blaster, the other caused a temperature...

Top line is the RETURN line to the fuel baffle, the other line is the carb pump. That one comes from the under the rear PTO cylinder. There are 2 lines under there. One is for the rave valves.

Small chisel and hammer. Pick a spot that is not close to the slots. Go about midways. Position the chisel at about 45 degrees and wrap it. It may turn. Don't let the chisel shear off any of the bolt. After you get a good raised surface you can use a 3/16" punch with the hammer to...

Piston size is written on the tops of the pistons. It's not always easy to see. You can look down the spark plug hole with the raves removed it is easier to see but carbon buildup can make identification difficult. It may read "STD" or (.50) which is 1/2mm or (.020") also .75mm and 1mm...

I am a machinist by trade and I can't think of a way to do that accurately and consistently without gauging it by the slide/piston clearance. Problem is the measurement is an "arc" and the measurement is constantly changing as it progresses.