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They are the desirable intake so tend to fetch a higher amount than the duals but there are always deals just be patient. I just got a spare singe carb with intake and oil pump, rotary cover and all yesterday for way less than people get for just the intakes.

Right I was just saying if one wanted to reuse a twin carb, while not ideal,you could make it work without a new choke cable.

I want to say you can reuse the choke cable you just have to shorten the shaft at the end of the cable since it only has to go thru one carb not two The single carb choke cable setup is different yes but the dual carb setup can be made to work.

You are not alone. I thank my lucky stars Sea-Doo decided to drop them with the 97 boats. It's doable to use what you have to make a single setup you will just need to change the jetting to something around what the singles came with but I have only done it with 587s.

I would strongly recommend checking pop-off pressures. The springs that come with the kits are not correct for most seadoos, and there's no guarantee that the springs you started with are the right ones either. I think the carbs on my boat had mismatched springs it was great. If the pop-off...

Cheapest thing to check is all the connections to the stator/magneto area, and the waterproof box. I would closely check any and all ground connections. Start/stop with the switches are a function of the mpem but it does two different things - push when motors off it energizes the starter...

That sucks about your motor. Even if you luck out and the only damage is at the top, you will still want to replace the mag and PTO crank seals and rebuild your carbs. Seals will require splitting the case but I would not skip this. Leanness from airleaks or carbs is what killed this motor in...

Heat tends to help get the PTOs off. When I did it I had the crank in a big vise, attached to a 8ftx8ft work table, still took a 1/2inch breaker bar with another 2 feet of cheater and the mapp gas torch before it finally busted loose. Hopefully yours is not THAT tight.

Unsure if it would have ever cleared because it was completely full and I did a lot of cranking off and on before I figured it out. I did do the shut off valve at the same time since I had time; I probably got that tip from one of your past posts :)

So my port motor did not want to start after sitting for a few weeks. I ruled out a lot just by starting the starboard motor but in the process I find that the motor is full of oil. OK, I knew the seals were a little leaky, now I know they are worse. One thing I found after lengthy...

I usually mix it 50/50 with water and spray it anywhere that I get greasy hand prints. My hull is far from the shiniest so it absorbs grease like nothing else. My bilge was disgusting and stunk when I got the boat and I cleaned it out with superclean undiluted full strength. Took a couple...

Love the stuff, works well for the outside too!

Quicksilver definitely makes a mess that lingers. I am trying to get all the oil out of one of my engines right now(leaking rotary crank seals) and have sprayed quicksilver all over the place.

Thanks for testing that out, I run the same exact quicksilver PWC oil. I will probably introduce it a little at a time to work it in

You cannot beat that price. I have been debating switching to Mystic for a while; might have to get a jug and see how some mixes with Mercury.

I think he was just poking fun at the reality that oil threads always devolve into a battle of the opinions.

And then you throw in the people who manage to run the TCW oil with no ill effects lol. FWIW I have run the Mercury oil for several years on different Seadoos(587, 717) and had no issues.

Thanks for this, mine are getting weak but still hold the lid open...for now.

In case anyone ever runs into the same thing - It's off an RFI. Nice starter with all ball/needle bearings and an 8 tooth bendix, but the top cap has different mount positions so the support bracket won't mount on a 717/657/587.