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Was doing a brake Job on the woman's car and the guys at Napa recommended I Pick this up as a brake pad lube said it won't freeze and it's good to 600 degrees F. After reading, it's silicone based and prety thick, I think it's a great alternative to Molykote as a silicone grease for...

Get 4\5 feet of 3\32 tygon gas line and zip tie them on real good with small zip ties. I use 2 on each end. Put about a half oz of oil down each spark plug hole then bleed the new lines by advancing the oil injection pump all the way while cranking it over with plugs still out a and plug...

Well I took them out for the 4th weekend and broke her in good:thumbsup: Ran her at 40:1 but it seemed too rich. Put 10 Gallons through it and so far it's running no problems :hurray:

Make sure not to forget to pull the plug wires and ground them, it runs real crisp with the carbs off. :facepalm: Did this worked good but make sure to advance the oil pump ALL the way open otherwise you can't see anything coming out of the injectors / nipples. I'm good to go. Thanks

Thanks 1983, that sounds like a good plan. I also found this post, looks like blowing air through them won't hurt them. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?54664-787-rotary-valve-cover-injection-port-nipple&highlight=Rotary+nipple

My 97 SPX's both have them on the plug itself.

Anybody have a link or know how to tell if these are working properly? (I know how to tell if their not, it'll stick a piston :))

Found the drain plug replacement orings at Home Depot, $2.75 for pack of 10 Number 212 Oring Home Depot SKU: 58269 Oring size is: 13/16 OD X 5/8 ID and 3/32 Thick

So 40:1 even with the oil injection pump working? Thanks

Brass Nipples on Rotary Valve Working? How can you tell if the brass Nipples on the rotary valve are working /flowing properly? I put some dry tygon lines on them and blew compressed air through them. It took some pressure and the line ballooned a little but they finally popped and the air...

Well after leaving the plugs out all night and most of the day today I popped them in and hoped for the best. Hit the starter with no choke and bang she coughed, sputtered....making progress. Repeated this 3 or 4 more times and was able to goose her up to a decent running RPM....SHES...

So this is where I stand, after 2+ years and probably well over 100 hours I have a motor that will turn over but not fire. I’m going to go out and try it again this morning after leaving the plugs out all night and see what happens. I also noticed that I have oil dripping from the PTO oil...

So after getting the motor all back together and cleaned up it was ready to go back in. During this time I was also working on the jet pump, the shaft had surface rust and the receiving end of the pump spines where pretty rusted so I taped off the splines and the surfaced part and clear coated...

While the ski was out of the hull I pulled the starter to test it and see if it worked. Well I didn’t want to spark the positive post and screw up the threads so I hooked it all up except the ground at the ear and hit the ear and only got a buzzing tried this 2 more times and on the 3rd time...

After getting it back home I bought a impeller removal tool (thanks RacerXXX) and spent the next Sunday pulling the jet pump at RacerXX’s suggestion. The Jet pump was fine so I figured it was most likely the other end of the motor so After 7 hours with my head in the hole trying to remove the...

Well after a marathon weekend re-assembeling the starter, trying to figure out what oil to put in the counter balancer chamber (I finally went with synthetic 75-90 gear oil and called it a day), figuring out what motor mount shims to replace and in what order I rigged a back yard sling from the...

With the whole motor assembled I decided to paint it with the duplicolor wheel paint (shot out to racerXXX) So I made a homemade paint booth out of cardboard and painted it on my garage floor. The next day I took it to my bothers to do final motor assembly and put it in the ski. Looks so...

After a couple days I dry fitted top end assembly and took a squish measurement. Of course the gasket that came with the WSM kit was a 6 hole and I needed a 4 hole so off to the local steelership for the right one. Read all of the group K articles on how to precision assemble the top end...

As I was dry fitting the crank and counter balancer I discovered that one of the center crank bearings was missing an o-ring s I had to hunt down the proper size get it and get it installed, cost me another week & a half but I was finally ready to start putting it back together after more than 2...

So after my business and life got in the way for almost a year with the motor in boxes I finally got back in touch the rebuilder and took the crank over to be rebuilt. Took him 2 weeks and I had it back but by this time it was desert riding season and my bike needed some love to keep it going...