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+ 1 with racerxx said. Also You need to determine what is fouling the cylinders. Is it fuel, oil, or water? I had an rfi that would only run on one cylinder and the plug was always perfectly clean. Tore down the head and had a bad o-ring on the head... Another possibility is the fuel pressure...

The only thing that fails on these is the little 3/32 oil lines from pump to rv cover and contamination. (water, wrong oils causing sludge, etc) IMO drain the oil tank, purge the lines and rv cavity, replace the oil filter, replace small lines, inspect for leaks and call it a day. Double check...

I would ohm out the wires from the info gauge to the fuel sender. (each wire seperately) The way to test if its the gauge or the sender is simply take a piece of wire or paperclip and loop the two wires together. Fuel gauges on almost any vehicle rely on a ground signal and the sender applies...

No unfortunately its at the cottage for the winter. My cart was just a simple steel frame i welded up (you could easily make it from wood too) On the bottom, i put two crossbraces and bolted a hand crank (like a trailer) winch on its side with the drum vertical instead of horizontal. Then used a...

Here in Canada i've started using the NAPA sealed batteries. I get them on sale for 99.99. They are just great. 325-400CCA damn near more than the old battery in my beater civic LOL. One thing they like is being charged at higher amperage (thats what the instructions say). I had a lead acid...

Unfortunately i didn't have a good experience with pwc engine. They had me ship my original cank down first from canada. Then after 3 weeks i tried calling/ emailing, couldn't get through. then finally they "forgot to ship my package" Get it here, they sent a 951 DI crank instead of the carbed...

I'm typically a one man operation as well. Just recently i started using a cart. I mounted a 20$ winch in the middle of my cart with a pulley and a piece of pvc pipe over my top frame to act as a roller. I just position the cart behind the trailer, and winch onto the stern cleat of the doo, It...

I just ordered 3 from amazon. 6$ CAN each free shipping. Unfortunately i took their last bit of quantity. They may not be 100% waterproof, but i figure if i keep the beeper inverted inside the steering column, the water should run out. Also a great trick i learned from an old marine guru. Spray...

Air leaks? There should be ZERO. Any un-metered air coming in after the carbs will cause a lean condition and roast your top end. When you put a new crank in, did you do a leak down test? I plug all the ports and pressurize the crank to 5 psi for 15 minutes and spray soapy water around all...

If its limiting to 4-5000 rpm it could also be a voltage regulator. I had that gremlin this summer. Verify first by using a volt meter on the battery. Check for 13-15 volts while ski is running, especially around 4000 rpm. voltage readings should be no more, no less. then check for AC voltage...

Yes you have to remove the carbs. Get an impact driver (hit it with a hammer and it twists) with a philips bit. This is just me, but if you haven't had the ski for long, i would at the very least put a set of needles and seats in it. I hate doing jobs twice. Only downside is checking pop-off...

700$ for all that???? Holy i like the states. I'd be all over that just to sell the stand for 600$ trailer for 600$ and the seadoo running for 800$ or keep it as a beater like said above. You cannot kill the yellow 587. I have a 91 GT that filled up with rain water through the back air vent...

The xp i had the cone "anti-rattle" device the guy removed or lost it and cut down a 1/4'' socket extension to replace it. Always wondered why the rattle at idle was so loud lol. cant show pics cause i sold it LOL.

75W90 synthetic gear oil seems to be the choice of oil. As to getting the pump off, i have a nice easy way. get a small length of chain. attach it to where the pump nozzle mounts using 2 of the bolts (diagonally) and run it in snug them up. you want a fairly small loop of chain. Then sneak a...

Its to protect the crank bearings and coat everything evenly. Fogging oil foams up and sticks to the walls of the cylinders/bearings and pushes moisture out, where as oil, eventually will just run down the surface.

I had a chance to pick one up for 250$ once. complete but not running, then got offered a 97 gsx with trailer for 400$ and went that route instead. looking back i should have grabbed it. Im a sucker for old primitive powersports. I have an original 1967 "snowbug" built in sudbury. basically an...

I would still try to fog through the air intake. Reason being, you want to lube up the crank bearings as well when you fog the engine and remove any condesation that may be in there. As an added bonus you can fog through the cylinders but you cant rely solely on that. especially for a 951...

I've come from both sides of the fence. I own 3 rotax skidoo's. and 4 seadoo's (a little bit of an addiction?) When it comes to engines, I like doing it once and right. UNLESS i had just rebuilt the engine, and toasted a piston due to a lean condition (cracked intake boot on PTO carb). I did a...

I did not remove the 15A fuse. It didn't seem like it would matter given that i had physically cut the 3 stator wires near the mpem and wired in the new voltage reg. unless it was shorted internally, but then i would expect a blown fuse or battery drain, which i did not have. You could have...

I do mobile winterizing. I use a cheap 10$ high flow drill pump and an 18V cordless dewalt drill. I do about 35 boats/seadoos a year and it works great. I normally buy a new pump every other year or so just to avoid it failing. It supplies enough water to run through seadoo's and alpha/bravo...