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blue loctite is fine

Definitely not as playful as the rxp but it rides 10x smoother on rough water. Speed wise they are pretty similar but the gtr runs smoother and quieter. Ibr is a huge plus as well.

It's even harder when it isn't attached as that helps to keep it from collapsing and hold it in place. You'll get it but you do have to twist and push hard and change the angle back and forth a little.

Buy new Chinese clusters and you will be able to read everything better.

Yes, that's how they come. Fault codes will pop up when they become active. All information is right on the screen all the time.

They are a little tricky to get the breather hose back on. My method is to put a little grease on it and hook the bottom edge first and push and twist with my right hand while squeezing the main tube with my left so it can't push in or collapse. Should go right in with a little cursing. lol

Yep, pull the sc and you'll see the problem quickly when you try to spin it. The aluminum dust is the impeller touching off on the housing. Unfortunately, you will need a new impeller and most likely a housing. The impeller is perfectly balanced to spin at 30k rpms so any touch off will throw...

That is a left-handed nut and you shouldn't turn it cw or it could loosen it. Turn it ccw and it should turn the engine over. More importantly, it should have a little bit of play with your hand wiggling it back and forth.

You have to check for the codes while the engine light is on. Once it goes off and goes away, so does the fault code menu. Will take BUDS to get it now unless you can reproduce it. I would guess that the whining is the supercharger.

Takes a little time on an IS since you'll have to lift the upper deck on the rear section to get access, there's a BRP video that shows how to do this. Once you have access, you'll take the intake hose off the sc and reach in to see if the impeller wheel spins or has a slight wiggle back and...

Check your supercharger, sounds like you lost a bearing. How long has it been since it was rebuilt last?

What does the injector spray pattern look like? What is your fuel pressure? Doing a leak down test will confirm that your engine can make enough HP.

You don't ever want to go full throttle in reverse. It can rip the reverse bucket right off, only slightly above idle in reverse. You shouldn't rev it to full throttle not under load which is hard on your engine and cause damage and basically tells you nothing. Have you done a leak down test...

I'd say there is a chance that the crank and/or gear will be ruined due to this slipping that much. I'd suggest just getting a new crank assembly because I think something is going on with that one like maybe somebody else removed it once and got it too hot and annealed it which is why it slipped.

The locking tool will still lock the crank if it's not in the hole. You verified with a flashlight and saw the hole? I've never seen the gear slip. It will rip teeth off before it slips which is why I changed them.

That wear is pretty minor and I would expect it to work perfectly. I've seen a bunch of them with major wear and they still worked fine. The steel slivers from the flywheel go through them constantly so they all get wear and still work fine.

Are you sure you have the locking tool in the correct hole? You have to use a flashlight and see the hole before you put the tool in as it will lock in almost any position. The crank gear is not keyed and has to be heated and pressed off as it is just an interference fit. To reinstall, you...

Most likely supercharger, then check pump, engine last.

Yes, a lot is different. Completely new electronic system where the mpem has been eliminated, TOPS electronic system changed to mechanical, and new and improved overall system.

Seadoo only sells the water pump as a complete assembly for the older 4tecs. Not sure if that o-ring is compatible between the ACE and 4tec. I would buy a used water pump on ebay for $25 shipped and take the o-ring off and use it. That joint has always been a problem on 4tecs because it cracks...