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It's actually not Nikasil like Ski-Doo has used for many years but is a plasma sprayed coating. All of the Sea-Doo motors use this process now. Has a lot of advantages many of them so BRP can produce them faster at a lower cost and works well, until it doesn't which is where you are now...

There is a wining noise while cranking that makes It sounds very labored like there is a drag on the system. When you put the engine together before the timing chain was put on, did it turn over freely with just the minor drag of the pistons that should be coated with oil? It should be turning...

Until you get 2 beeps, it will not get any spark, so it won't start. The single long beep is either not reading the key properly, wrong key (or thinks it's wrong) or low voltage or a bad post, they have 2 circuits in them and both have to close, a bad ECU, a bad or intermittent wiring...

If the ski wakes up with one or 2 beeps when you put any key on then the 30A relay is working fine. Skiasylum is on the right track.

It will never start until you get the 2 beeps. Starter solenoid doesn't have anything to do with not getting the double beep.

Your plasma plating is coming off which they started in 2016. It will get worse until it self destructs. I'd have it bored out and sleeved or bored and replated now before you completely ruin it. There's plenty of info on this if you search. RIVA has sleeves but many times you end up spending...

That's your diode cap that seadoo used as a bandaid to try to protect the ECU for a few years which didn't really work well. It typically won't run without it if you have an open circuit or it's burnt which opens the circuit. You can use a voltmeter to do a diode test or check for open...

Something is out of alignment for it to strip. Usually, a failing sc bearing will cause this but could also be a crank bearing although far less likely unless you had a rod knocking. Are you 100% sure the bearings in the sc are good? The bearings should have 0 play. Any play at all can strip...

To get the codes, scroll through the menus and there will be a new "FAULT CODES" menu but you have to do this while the check engine light is on. If you shut the engine off, it will not be there unless it is still active.

The plug always has to be grounded to complete the circuit regardless of a coilpack system or old school plug wires.

There's several things to check. See the owners manual.

Nope, have to buy software or find someone with software like BUDS or send your ECU to someone.

What exactly is clicking? Press set 5 times, then mode to get all active codes.

If you don't put antifreeze in your intercooler it will look like this in the spring. They thoroughly blew out the cooling system and this was the result. It only takes a little bit of water to fill these tubes and make them split.

No, that area is part of the oil sump and the design. The o-ring is what seals the oil. You can try a little bit of heat but the scotch grip is pretty far down so typically doesn't work well. I've had some that had to grind a slotted groove near the edge along with a flat spot so I could lay...

You have to reach around and hold it with a wrench, then not drop the nut and washer.

The paddle wheels have magnets in them so a simple 3D print won't work. $35 on ebay for OEM SeaDoo so not worth the trouble of creating the 3D model and buying magnets to glue in then printing imo. Ebay paddle wheel

Sacrificial anode on both sides from most saltwater dealers

As you found out, the 2016-2018 300 sc are prone to failure. Later models are better but still not as good as they should be. Make sure you clean up your housing if it has any damage.

The problem probably wasn't the impeller coming off. That was the result of your idf locking up. You can use a slide hammer to get the driveshaft out while doing some wiggling and twisting.