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The latest version is simple to separate as in the video. The older versions are a pain but with a little patience, heat, and gentle prying it can be done.

This is why the compression test doesn't mean much and BRP doesn't even recommend doing them because the results can be confusing at best. I've seen SC motors at 110 on all 3 and ran perfectly for many years at full speed and acceleration. Do the leakdown test and go from there. Not likely...

They work well and I've used plenty of them but they do have to be flashed and married to your ski. They will sort of work on some models (missing functions or weird display) without this being done but it will never be perfect until the ECU is married to the cluster with the same security...

Squeeze it on the top and bottom and wiggle it side to side, you'll get it.

Yes, can be done fairly easily but still not fun laying on the motor. Not very. The 185s only seem to break in saltwater environments and very poor winterizing practices. Not at all. I still prefer to put 2004 timing chains on versus new ones. They were built better back then. Flywheel...

For 2006, the relay is internal to mpem. Could be the DESS post for that year is a common failure. Did you try to jump start the ski?

I've had very good luck with sbt valves. I normally just replace all the valves in the stock heads and they run perfectly for a very long time. Have your local machine shop lap them in and vacuum test the head which they will do cheaply.

Sounds like you're running on only 2 cylinders. They run surprisingly well on only 2 cylinders and the average person thinks it is running fine but just doesn't have enough power. Go back to basics, compression, fuel, and well-timed spark to make it run right. 5 minute test to check the spray...

Did you replace the coils and check the injector spray pattern? At 20 occurrences on coil 3 is not just from a compression check. Does it accelerate hard like it should?

Sounds electrical. Check coils and all connections. Even a loose battery cable can cause intermittent issues.

change your spark plugs

Depending on the year of the ski. It helps to post what year you have. They typically say 130 or 170 on them for almost all years. Last 2 digits of the HIN will give you the model year.

I've used them as well and have all performed perfectly. If you prefer, you can buy the actual Bosch that BRP uses from an auto parts store. I've done this as well and has also worked perfectly but you do have to do a minor modification and reuse your old rubber gasket but pretty simple...

Start with making sure your battery is good. You can jump the solenoid which should make the engine crank over.

Looks like it's labeled correctly to me. When you look at the back side of the connector, it's backwards from looking at the front side.

The 4 beeps is just the key reminder. The long single beep is the problem which is either connection problem or communication problem. Could be low battery, bad DESS post, wire connection problem, etc. Could be neutral safety switch but they typically either work or they don't. It will never...

All sensors and functions that affect and help to control the TB and engine air flow can cause the TB to get confused where it thinks it is out of position which can throw this code. This includes the IAT, fuel injectors, MAP, engine temp sensors, etc., low compression, and even leaky valves...

Are you sure it was smoke and not water vapor from a leaking intercooler? You can run it on the hose and check for water going into the throttle body or oil from supercharger. Not sure why the tech had no compression on one cylinder and it checked fine for you unless you had a valve hanging...

All 4tecs from 2002-2006 use both an mpem and an ECU. The key is always programmed to the ECU, not the mpem.

Changing the model number does nothing for the ECU to actually change it to a different model. Did the RXT you got the ECU from have IS and of the same year?