Cutting fiberglass - Spreaker install

[SeaDooTim]

I have changed out the Clarion 1625 with Polk Audio MOMO MMC650. Per the attached picture, I want to add 2 MOMO MMC690 to the rear storage area. What do you suggest I use to cut the holes? Router with a template guide?

RED is current placement
BLACK is possible speaker placement
BLUE is possible sub placement

 

[RyanBayles]

Ive always used a rotozip to cut out fiberglass you could probably use a router its basically the same thing but a rotozip is easier to handle

 

[kustomkarl]

Use a Jig saw, or a rotozip is real easy, just take your time and be carefull...they tend to wander and mess up a cut if you've never used one before.Tape the area, than mark it on the tape and use a drill the correct size for the cut tool to get into the materal. Then use the cut tool to cut it out...follow the line made on the tape. The tape also keeps the surrounding area from getting marred by the tool used to cut the hole.

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

get the correct bit, its not to bad, one thing that i do is cut with the tool at about a 45 degree angle, then you can use ur hands as a stop, if that makes any since...

 

[SeaDooTim]

I went with the Craftsman "rotozip". Very easy cutting....after sitting there for 30 minutes trying to get the nerve to start cutting. I only installed 1 sub for now, trying to decide on the placement of the 2nd. The 6x9's are on the tower with 5.25's downfiring.

 

[timmyboy76]

:cheers:...good job, stud...looks killer.

 

[texasmojo]

I went with the Craftsman "rotozip". Very easy cutting....after sitting there for 30 minutes trying to get the nerve to start cutting. I only installed 1 sub for now, trying to decide on the placement of the 2nd. The 6x9's are on the tower with 5.25's downfiring.

Im like you i have to take lots of time to think about the consequences before i do things. Is that sub a free air type that does not require a box? How does it sound and what wattage are you powering it with?

 

[jsmayda]

I don't like the router because I have seen people slip and it eats a good chunk of fiberglass. Rotozip is safer. But I use a hole saw forwards until you make the center hole then put in reverse until you scuff the surface then put in forwards until all the way thru. It works perfect for me. As for mounting things that arent round. Start with a 3/8 drill bit in a few places then use a pneumatic recipricating saw. It works great I have been installing these systems for years and its a good safe way to do it. U wont hear "oops I slipped"

 

[tresvatos1]

need help routing speaker wires behind fiberglass

I have cut holes in my speedster for two 5.25", and two 6x9"s, as well as a waterproof stereo mount on the passengers console. I need to know now how to route the wires from the pass. side console to the speaker locations, and also the pos. neg. wires to the stereo. there is so much foam inbedded in the fiberglass body that it seems it may be difficult to route the wires. does anyone know an easy way to do this, or have a trick?

Thanks for the help, Greg

 

[pincusa]

I think it was already said, but tape the area first. THis will help make a cleaner cut.

For this type of thin fiberglass with no core, you can use a manual key saw. Not as fast I know, but it will keep you out of trouble.

For inspection holes and speakers, I've either used a large hole saw and a drill with enough torque to spin it, or an adjustable whole saw that's normally used for recess lighting. You can get one at home depot

Good luck!

 

[nswillin]

Nice post guys, and nice boat SeadooTim. Keep us posted on your work. :cheers: