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Way to go,, DI’s can be a pta to diagnose.

Fuel does affect your beeps, Could be the dess post,,, or the key,,, cheap and easy install instead of an expensive MPEM

I haven’t been months,, and now,,, pay to upgrade??? Nope!!!

And that small “ o” ring is from the rav valve, Just carefully remove the other rag valve taking very careful note of the order if the parts.. take lots of pics,,, Of course the other one could have been installed incorrectly,, you may have to find a diagram in the manual

Hhmm,,, the small spring probably goes to the accelerator pump arm,,, those damn things come off and you don’t even know it it, so,,, unless my accelerator pump is not working,, I do not take them apart! The longer spring looks like a rav valve spring,, which will make thevski run like shit

12volts low usually means rectifier is gone,

Wow,, 350 hours is near the limit, I would’vecheck compression to start,, poor psi will foul a plug. Also test out the rectifier and load test the battery. Many many years ago,, I chased a “ plug fouling” problem,,, finally changed out battery, bingo!!!

Have you checked compression? When DI pumps go,,, they usually tank right away,,, Best way,,, have your fuel pressure gauge outside the ski,,, as you ride it,, the needle will bounce,,, but you will be able to see if the needle is the correct zone, Of course you have switched the plugs I am...

Hhmm, the oil return line is at the top of the reservoir and comes from the port side of the motor, the return side of the rotary valve. The in lines then just drop down by gravity to the oil pump and “ in” ( starboard) side of the motor to feed the rotary valve.

On our race 800 LTD… we put the return line at the bottom of the hull ( below the carb) and run our “T” from there. This way there always is fuel in the line and the primer before you want to prime,

Usually the primer line tee’s off the return because it always has fuel in it,,,and it avoids using the ”line” so that there are no air pockets for the incoming fuel from the primer.

Nice happy ending,,,way to go!

if the pumps are good, why waste time and money?

Would,,, remove the rings,,,put them in the cylinder,,,using the piston,,,look up the ring width clearance,,,if it is within limits,,,leave it alone,,,then measure the piston clearance,,,f they both fall within limits,,,you should be okay,

Aftermarket pumps rarely work under load

Wow,,, unusual,,,your selenoid is sticking closed;;; sending lots of current,,,i have seen terminals from a sticking selenoid

Dumb question,,, do you have oil in the rotary cavity?

The white flecs is a sign of water being burned.,,pull the pump,,,maybe a seized pump bearing,,, can you do a compression test.,,,maybe partially seized piston.

The stinger is that fitting that comes out at the end of the pipe,,, it looks like there is a mikuni main jet in there,,, mine has the same.,,,hard to tell from the pic

I have the factory pipe, one hose tees off into the stinger, and one hose tees off into the waterbox,,,one long hose tees off to the front of the pipe where I have replaceable main jets And I have a hose that tees off into the water injection at the head pipe,,, The ski is on storage,, so can’t...