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I found some at Walmart that are designed for a kayak, only $7 USD. They are very bright, and have plastic clasps that allow the rubber housed lights to attach to a round pole of 1”-1-1/2” diameter.

Those little screens don’t stop everything, you see debris on both sides of it during teardown of a grenaded engine.

Glad to hear it!‍

I found a guy on ebay that can put a new case, lens, and if you need it, the led polarizer for $300, I only needed the lens, the back case has to be replaced, so my cost was $250, he has to remove the internals no matter what, he does beautiful work, and does it in 24 hours, and ships it back by...

Anyone ever fix an ibr problem with the flash? How about with the calibration?

any P or C codes?

GTX, that has an internal intercooler, not the big aluminum monstrosity plumbed to the jet pump in the back of the hull, maybe not an IC problem now that I think on it.

Just reread the detailed post, you enter sport mode, you get the indication that you are in sport mode, and the boost isn’t there? Does it have any differences in acceleration after going into sport mode? Have you tried Eco yet? Does that feel and sound the same? Could be a leaky intercooler...

Spark plugs? They don’t last a whole season on some engines, that’d cause the rough idle, no codes?

Check the jet pump for obstructions yet?

Looks like nobody responded, did you figure it out?

Your wear ring or prop are either badly worn, or something is wrong with the prop shaft bearings that make the prop very hard to turn.